Becoming Officially Vietnamese

Elsbeth writing…

Time for a “quick” update. Not much has gone on this last week other than work, work, work. This was the last week of summer school, which is good and sad. Good in the sense that next week will be much quieter and sad in the sense that most of the summer school teachers are leaving.

On Friday afternoon I took my motorbike driving test across town. It was more of an obstacle to get to the testing center than to actually take the test. What with buses shooting out disgusting smog, deep pot holes, idiotic, speeding motorbike drivers, and SUVs honking and turning right in front of you. I’ve been working through the process of getting my license for several weeks now and I finally took the test. I met a Vietnamese lady from the Language Link head school there. I practiced once through the course and then we headed upstairs through the old building crowded at the top floor with other people waiting to take their written test in a hot, non-air conditioned room. I didn’t have to take the written test—only the practical one. There was another Western man there and when we had to come forward to sign our papers the woman calling names couldn’t pronounce them so she just said “foreigners come forward.” Everyone laughed and looked to see the two white-skinned, sweaty people make their way to the front.

Then we eventually made our way downstairs and stood with a small crowd of Vietnamese people waiting to take their practical tests. My guide was able to get us to take our tests earlier, because I had to go back to work (sometimes Westerners have priority, which can be good, but also unfair; then again, sometimes Westerners are purposefully served last). It was kind of embarrassing to take the test in front of a crowd of locals. I’m sure they thought we were pretty stupid and ridiculous to be doing what we were doing. Even the guy who controlled the test motorbikes held onto the bike and indicated that I needed to click it into gear as if I’ve never ridden a motorbike before. “Gee, thanks, I had no idea, but hey I’m taking the test anyway, dur!” The first part of the test is the most difficult and it didn’t help with the crowd or the fact that I was sweaty, nervous and hadn’t eaten much that day. You have to make a tight figure-eight while staying within the white lines and not letting your feet touch the ground. I did okay, but my foot briefly touched the ground. I thought “Shoot, well I’m done for.” I finished out the test just fine and came back. Both of us thought that we hadn’t passed but we did! Such a relief! Maybe they didn’t notice my foot touching or maybe they just wanted to get rid of us Westerners, but now I have my receipt and can pick up my real, bonafide Vietnamese motorbike license in a couple weeks.

As I’ve said before, traffic is crazy here and I’m glad I at least have my license now (about 8 months later than I should have). Just tonight on my way home from the movie there was a motorbike crash right in front of me. Everyone was okay, but two people weren’t wearing their helmets and the person at fault was stupid and driving right into traffic. As a Westerner, though, you can’t stop for those things, because you might be blamed so they can extort money from you.

Anyway, on Friday night I met the summer school people after work and we went to a bar out in the boonies for awhile. Saturday I worked, but then some of us had dinner at a Bia Hoi near school to have one last hurrah with the summer school people.

Today I ran some errands in the afternoon. I got some groceries, a good face mask (one that actually protects you from pollution and matches my helmet perfectly), and a floral/rose patterned long-sleeved shirt to protect me from the sun. Many Vietnamese women wear these to keep their skin white. They look old-fashioned, but they’re comfortable. Next I need to get an Ao Dai and some leopard print pajamas tailored. Then I'll be officially Vietnamese. I also bought a new helmet shield, because I broke mine one night a few weeks ago when I was trying to open my door. I ventured to a café one co-worker showed me and sat and read for a little while. Afterwards I got my motorbike washed and tried to find this art supplies store that I found on the New Hanoian, but it either wasn’t there or closed. Instead, I went to a dress shop and tried on some clothes, none of which I really liked. Finally I met two of my co-workers at the Cinematique for the 7 o’clock movie (now that I’m a member I need to take advantage of it). We had some drinks and a cheese platter there beforehand and some free popcorn during the movie.

The movie was pretty good, I thought. It’s great to see a real Vietnamese movie made by a Vietnamese director. It was called "Nostalgia for the Countryside" and, surprise, took place in the countryside of Vietnam. The story is from one 17-year-old farmer boy’s perspective as he lives in his small farming community and comes of age. It was fascinating to see the things I’ve seen first hand on my travels there on the silver screen. Somehow seeing those things in a movie makes it all more amazing, especially when you can say that you see that way of life every day.

Even going on a year, I am still amazed sometimes by where I am. The culture is becoming modern and at the same time is still old. Like I said a long time ago, Vietnam is at a very romantic point in time. You see women selling flowers and vegetables in woven baskets every day on the street, I walk past an ancient wooden communal house on my way to the modern, upscale Vincom Mall, and on the corner near where I live is a dusty, old, Eastern apothecary. But then I think that in the States there are some amazing things there too. Even the old brick buildings from the 1800s in Buffalo are pretty fascinating when you think about it. Any place you go to, especially if it’s a new place, can be fascinating and beautiful.

It’s my goal to do at least one new thing every week and every day I have off. So much still to do, but even running errands, like I did today, is new.