Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Snow Day in Vietnam!? Cyclone Day rather...

Elsbeth writing…

Yet again, it’s been a long time since I last posted an update and much has happened, so grab a cup of coffee, get comfortable, and be prepared for a long blog.

I like the idea one of my CELTA groupies had for her blog. So here’s the short version first if you are in a hurry (which I know many of you usually are): We moved into our new house last Friday, I’m renting a motorbike today, and Monday we had a “snow day” because we were supposed to get a Cyclone, which never came.

Now here’s the long, overly-detailed version. Where to start? We’ll go in chronological order. Many of you probably already know that Ellyn was mugged over a week ago—last Sunday. It was pretty crap that it happened to her, but we can be thankful that it wasn’t as bad as it could have been. She was already laughing about it within a few hours.

Last week was another busy week. We started our Vietnamese class. It was good, but the pronunciation is so difficult. You have to remember what all the accents mean and get them exactly right in order to be even slightly comprehensible with a native speaker. It does put your own English teaching into perspective, though.

We also went to the orphanage in Vung Tau for the first time last week. It was a good experience. I was asked if I could teach adult classes there (to the staff and older kids) for an hour each Saturday. I’m thinking about it, but I’ll do something there for sure. We’ll see. The kids were really sweet and after taking a tour of the facility we tutored them for an hour in English. Then we took them next door to a Vietnamese café/shop. The kids got pop and we had Vietnamese coffee. It comes with this little filter contraption which is placed over your cup. You wait a little bit for the coffee to filter through and then pour it into a cup of ice for iced coffee. Although I’m not big on coffee, it’s pretty good. I know you’d love it, mom and dad :-). It was a clean little shop, a nice place to sit, but obviously poorer as many of the shops here are. The kids seemed to have a good relationship with the friendly, parental owners.

On Thursday we had our second day of football at the beach. It was a lot of fun. Although playing with a bunch of big guys—and me obviously being small—you can’t walk away with out a few scraps, bruises, and painfully stubbed toes. We also went swimming, but the waves were freakishly high and dirty. It was high tide and I didn’t want to venture out very far. I could just feel the rip tide tugging me at waist deep. I banged my head anyway trying to body board.

Then we moved into our new home—an actual house this time—on Friday. There were three people living here already—two guys and a lady, all teachers at ILA. She moved out the other day and we moved up to her bedroom, which is quite nice. It’s spacious, has nice furniture, there’s a balcony, and windows that let in lots of light. The best part, however, is the spa/sauna/shower in the bathroom. I have to admit it was a bit intimidating trying to figure this thing out, but I think I’ll like it. It’s way fancier than anything I’ve ever had at home, although I still really miss our good-old-fashioned sauna. The two guys are still here. They’re really nice, but one is planning to leave at the end of the month (maybe?), so one of us will take his room. It should be a good place to live. I’m glad we are FINALLY settled in.

This weekend wasn’t super eventful. Now that we have some money Ellyn and I went shopping. She rented a motorbike on Saturday. Today I’m finally going in to rent a motorbike. I’ve looked around a bit and the one I was looking at wasn’t available a few days ago. Anyway, we’re contemplating just buying bikes and then selling them later…there’s pros and cons to that though. I can’t wait to get my own bike and be more independent. Steve taught me to drive to on Sunday. It’s pretty nerve-raking driving with the traffic here in Vung Tau. I also still need to get coordinated with all the new shifts and levers, but hopefully I’ll get used to it soon. The drivers here are crazy. I thought the traffic was nuts in HCMC, but it’s worse here because not only are they faster, they’re lazier drivers.

Ellyn and I also bought some heavy-duty, Space Balls-style helmets. We also bought cell phones. Sad, I was enjoying my freedom without a phone attached to me wherever I went (not that I ever talked on it much), but it’s good to have one now. We also got into a very maternal phase this weekend. We cleaned up the place a bit, threw the filthy rags which lined the floor in a corner and replaced them with new rag rugs, bought garbage cans, towels, and did laundry.

Then we had a “snow day” in Vietnam on Monday because there was supposed to be a cyclone heading our way. However, it never even reached us and the day was only pleasantly overcast. We were already at school when we got the news. I was quickly trying to prepare lessons and contemplating only going to the first hour of Vietnamese lessons, so it was a fantastic relief. Wohoo, three-day weekend! They were really battening down the hatches in the Co-op Mart across the street when we went in to get a few things. They were putting colorful tarps over all the cases and sections of the store. I’m not sure if it was because of the cyclone or renovation. We ended up bumming around that night. We went to Tommy’s Bar and had nachos. Yum. It was a pretty long, lazy weekend in Vung Tau as usual.

So now it’s almost the weekend again. Today I’m gearing up for another game of beach football. I think I’ll wear shoes this time….

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Stupid Foreigner turns to Begging

Ellyn Writing...
Today I became a beggar when I discovered my poor motorbike gas gauge had drastically dropped to E and would not continue driving for me. Yes, I have gotten a motorbike, which I am so happy with. This last weekend was a very productive weekend. After moving into a house with two fellow teachers, one guy from Belgium, Kristoff, and the other from Scotland, Tony, I decided it was time to make a move and get myself a motorbike for a month and see how I liked it. I figure this may keep away the muggers because I can drive faster so Steve took me out to discover the art of driving a motorbike. After driving in a few circles I went to the rental place and rented a motorbike. My first stop after buying my new motorbike was a helmet shop. With myself driving, I decided I needed a hardcore helmet. Apparently, Elsbeth also thought this was a necessary action so we both now have Star Wars looking helmets to keep us safe. After a few days of driving anywhere and everywhere around town, I have become much more comfortable driving. I have become a pro Vietnamese driver. In fact I have become such a comfortable drive that I have become Vietnamese. While a fellow MInnesotan lady teacher (yes i say MInnesotan! very bizarre! there are several Minnesotans here!) and Elsbeth and I were searching for a place to get a pedicure, we had 3 of us on the motorbike. When a man warned us that we were going to get in trouble with the police because we had to many people on the bike, I explained to him that merely 2 minutes ago we had passed at least 6 police officers on bikes and we had had 3 people on the bike and we were driving on the wrong side of the road. They don't care...it's the Vietnamese way.

But back to my gas gauge. Seeing as I was on a short trip back home from school to pick up some music before work this afternoon, I didn't think I would need any money (bad decision number one). As I got about half way home my bike started sputtering and I start thinking something must be extremely wrong with my bike. But instead I found that I had not looked at my gas gauge for about a day (bad decision number 2). So there I am sitting on the side of a pretty quiet road trying to figure out my next move. As a young teen couple drives past I give them a pathetic sad look and they figure I'm in trouble. They pull up beside me and I signal to them that I am completely out of gas. The girl then jumps on my bike and I jump on the back of their bike behind the guy. They then push my bike to a gas station about 5 blocks away.
This is a typical Vietnamese way of doing things. One motorbike will push another bike. This is done by the driver of the bike placing his left foot on the bike ahead (normally a pedal bike) and pushing it along nice and easily. I have done this numerous times before, in fact I had been a guilty member of the towing club when I had had only my pedal bike to get around. A couple teachers had pushed my around while I was on my bike., but I had not seen this done with another motorbike, but the Vietnamese are very skillful with these bikes (even though we almost got into an accident on the way to the station. When I got to the gas station I thanked these very helpful Vietnamese friends and waved goodbye.
Now for my next move. First I tried to talk to the attendants and see if they will give me gas if I come back, this was extremely ineffective and I decide its time to try something else. So I ask a woman if she speaks English and she say yes and I explain my situation. I say I can pay her back if she gets me enough gas to get home and back but she says no she will just pay for it. No problem! So off I was on my way home with another bizarre experience. This one, however, I do have to admit was completely my fault and I shall keep a better eye on my gas from now on. And I feel complete love for the Vietnamese helpful behavior after this. Or perhaps I should quit and take up begging because it seams I have a knack for it.

Monday, November 10, 2008

An Ode to a great purse

Ellyn writing....
Malta, Caribbean, Egypt, Greece, Turkey, Italy, Vietnam, and multiple US cities...My little black Brazilian purse has traveled with me since 2005 when I bought it on my first trip out of the country to Brazil. It has seen happy times and sad times but all in all it has been an amazing journey. I am now mourning the loss of a wonderful purse that has stood by me through thick and thin, which has happily carried many items and stayed hidden enough as to where no one would bother trying to take it. It was small and a perfect size to fend off all the thieves. I could hold it close by my side and felt safe yet adequately prepared with enough items to carry me through the day. The rein of my little black Brazilian purse ended ever so suddenly Sunday November 9, 2008 at approximately 14:00 (broad daylight). I was driving my bike back from looking at a house for possible rent when two men on a motorbike drove up to me and slowed down. Now this is not an unusually occurrence as a foreign western woman (people slow down and stare all the time) so I really thought nothing of it. When they moved in really close I knew what was going on but by that time it was two late to do anything about it. The man on the back of the bike grabbed onto my purse which was hooked around me and tried to yank it away. For a moment I was being dragged along by their motorbike because my dependable purse was holding on stubbornly. Finally, the purse broke free as the strap broke. My lovely Vietnamese friends sped off into the distance leaving me on the ground yelling to get attention of the passerbys. A man with his son and wife on the back of his motorbike slowed and told me it was too late, they were long gone and then mumbled something about a phone. He left when I stumbled back onto my bike which was then completely out of alignment from the fall. Out of the several other witnesses no one made a move to help out so I figured I was on my own. I hurried back to the hotel to close my 3 credit card accounts of which I had stupidly kept in my purse. When I reached the hotel I tried to tell the front desk workers what had happened but they sat me down trying to clean up my bloody mess, their English would not allow them to help me in anyway so rather that try to explain to then what happened I came up to my room and got my parents to close my American accounts. My Vietnamese account would be left open until the beginning of the next day because they are not open on Sundays. The system is very convenient for people who need to take money out, however, closing your account is entirely impossible on Sundays. So here I am two days later without my trusty purse which I had entrusted more than it was worthy. Along with my favorite purse went my camera, my phone, 800,000 d/V which is $50 (which leaves me with no accessible money to my name until I figure out the bank situation), all of my credit cards, and a pack of American gum. Unfortunately what came with it were some great scrapes and bruises (love the battle wounds), a depleted trust of Vietnamese people, an awareness of my vulnerability, a bike which no longer works properly, a sadness with the realization that the scenic route I love to run through every day is not the safest area to be in. Still I have to take into account that my losses were minimal. My scrapes with quickly heal, I did not have my passport in my purse (I had given it to ILA for a visa renewal), I had needed a new camera anyway (I had dropped it in a bucket of paint so while it still worked I had to manually pry the lens open before taking pictures). I had wanted to bike through Vietnam but as this type of crime seams to be a normal occurrence across the country, I may want to chose a different country for my long bike trip. Being a foreign white woman means I have a bulls-eye painted right on my back for crimes like these. I shall be much more careful in the future, while this experience makes for an interesting story, I think once is enough for me! My little black purse that I loved so much will live on in my heart forever, but I must move on. Someday maybe I can find another purse that can live up to its greatness. Goodbye forever my faithful purse!


Ignore the awkwardness of the picture but this is me, my good friend Madalyn, and my purse in Malta

Saturday, November 1, 2008

HaPPy hALloWeEN! After a long week...

Elsbeth writing...

Yet again, it’s been a long time since I’ve written an update for this blog. This last week as been absolutely crazy and a lot has happened. First, my birthday was last Sunday! It was a fantastic day celebrated Vietnamese style. I had the day off of work (we had just finished working 10 days in a row and needed a break). We were pretty lazy—sleeping in late, watching TV, and generally being bums. In the evening we went to Pineapple Beach, which is at the foot of the bluff where the Jesus statue is. It’s behind a café and down the hill. It’s our favorite secluded beach. There are rocks to climb on, big waves, and few people. We played Frisbee and I read for a bit. Afterwards we went to a nice seafood restaurant. I wanted a change in venue so we went in the opposite direction than we usually go when looking for a restaurant. We had a traditional Vietnamese hotpot dinner. A metal pot is placed over a small burner on your table. In the pot they cook a stew right there. We had mixed seafood with fresh vegetables. It also comes with big bowls of rice noodles, rice, and vegetables. It was delicious. After dinner we went back to the hotel, had cake, and watched the second half of Harry Potter on TV. Ellyn bought a fancy cake for my birthday with roses and everything. It was so good. There were four of us so we had a quarter each of this huge cake. I also got a lot of birthday wishes and it was great to talk to my parents and Sarah over Skype. Overall it was a great day.

Also later that week I received a package from my parents at ILA. Thanks heaps by the way! I knew they were sending me some things we needed, but they also put in some b-day presents. A couple used books—the first Twilight series book and a biography about L.M. Montgomery. I was so excited. So now I have even more to read. I also got a beautiful old fashioned necklace and earrings that my mom bought from an estate sale. Apparently the previous owner had traveled and collected jewelry from all over the world. So typical of our family to buy used things. It was a little piece of home. Ellyn also got a package from her parents today. It’s always nice to get mail, but it’s ten times better when you’re halfway around the world.

Those were some of the main highlights of my week. The rest of the week was super busy. We had meetings and workshops all week. Monday my boss observed one of my classes as the first observation for new teachers. I also started a new seniors class (middle school age). So now I have three seniors classes and one adult class. I didn’t particularly want the adult class, but they’ve invited me out for coffee and have offered me rides home so they seem pretty nice. Still, it’s very difficult to teach them because they’re beginners. It’s so hard to explain a concept, give directions, or get them to do something interactive. I’m glad I have mostly seniors classes, since that was the age I originally wanted to teach in Minnesota. They’re good kids.

We also had to spend our Tuesday and Thursday afternoons at the hospital getting health checks for our work permits. That was an experience to say the least. Ellyn’s writing a blog about that, too. On the first day we had our blood drawn and then they gave us these tiny test tubes and pointed to the bathrooms. I just started laughing and laughing the entire time. Not only did we have to somehow use these tiny tubes, but there were dirty squat toilets. Then we had to carry them back in plain sight of our co-workers (there were five of us—two guys and three girls) and put them in this rack in the open air where everyone was walking by. How embarrassing. But that was just the start. The next day wasn’t so funny for us three ladies and we were pretty upset with ILA. Ellyn can tell you more about that…. Anyway, complain all you want about healthcare in the states, but it really makes you thankful for the quality of care we have back home.

Then on Thursday morning we had two friends—a couple our age—from our CELTA class visit us. They work at ILA in HCMC and needed a break by the beach. It was great to have them over, although I didn’t see them until later that evening. I had to plan my lessons and get books for my new class. We met for dinner on All Night Street (as it’s dubbed, even though it’s not really open all night—late, though, for Vietnamese people). We usually eat somewhere on this street every day after work. There’s a lot of cheap Vietnamese food. Can you believe that I haven’t had potatoes for two weeks now?! Crazy. After dinner we went to the Monte Carlo Casino in town. We got free beers (because we look like rich Westerners) in exchange for gambling. I just exchanged 100,000 (about $5) into USD, but didn’t spend anything. I don’t care for that much, plus I’m still dirt poor. Then they slept overnight in our hotel room, since we have two queen-size beds and we introduced them to the world of quality late-night movies on cable….

Yes, that’s our new thing in this small town. Every night after work we flip on the TV to see what great, new movie is on the Star Movies or Cinemax Channels. We’ve seen some doozies. Let’s see… "Ants on a Plane" as we call it (really, “Destination: Infestation”) where these vicious ants attack people on a plane. I think that’s where they got the idea for “Snakes on a Plane.” Then there was “Tremors” with the sand monsters who try to eat Kevin Bacon in the desert. That night we watched a “scary” movie called “Storm Warning.” There was a storm, but I don’t recall hearing a warning. It was just a couple crazy Aussie guys trying to kill this couple who trespass on their land.

Anyway, the next morning we went to Belly’s and had a real American breakfast—French toast, bacon, orange juice, and an omelet with cheese. So good. We played cards and later saw them off on the ferry. It’s so nice to have visitors.

Anyway, speaking of scary things, on Halloween we had a special scare for the students. In both my classes I talked to them about Halloween, showed them pictures, and for my seniors I had them say “Trick-or-Treat” to get candy. Then during break time all of a sudden they shut off the lights and some of the teachers, who wore scary costumes, came up and freaked out the kids. And they were really freaking out, even the TAs and the girls in my adult class were scared. I thought it was kind of hazardous to have it pitch black and have kids running all over. Someone also accidentally tipped over a bucket of water so the floor was all slippery. I’m surprised no one got hurt. But that’s Vietnam for you. It’s the law for adults to wear helmets when riding a motorbike, but not kids under 12. They weld without face masks. They’re pretty lax about safety.

So that’s an update for now on our lives here. Jeez, yet another long blog.